FINALLY, here are the first of our pictures from beautiful St. Petersburg!
We spent all of our time in the city's historic center. After Helsinki (population 565,000), St. Petersburg (population 4.5 million) seemed HUGE to us, but we were able to walk to everything we wanted to see, and soon learned our way around---our navigation mostly involved daily treks up and down the city's main drag, Nevsky Prospect. We actually spent a good bit of time just wandering around, gawking . . . and avoiding being run over by the very determined Russian pedestrians. We were both pushed and shoved, even by babushki.
(And standing in a line is a contact sport. Both of us found this mentality difficult to adjust to . . . but, we've never had to stand in line hoping to buy bread, so we're pretty sure that we just don't get it.)
St. Petersburg was founded by Peter the Great in 1703, as his "window on Europe," and was Russia's capital until 1918. It still has a very European feel, with plenty of canals meandering off of the Neva River, and both Italian Baroque and French Art Noveau-inspired architecture. There are plenty of Russian/Eastern touches, too, which we'll add to the blog soon.
What you see below is what every first-time visitor should see: the Winter Palace and Hermitage buildings. The Hermitage is one of the greatest art museums in the world, but we both had trouble concentrating on the art because the galleries were so amazing! Throne rooms, banquet rooms . . . the opulence was overwhelming ( . . . and aggravating, when we thought about the poverty that lead to the Bolshevik Revolution). We especially loved the floors. The pictures below aren't the greatest---we took them hurriedly, as we hadn't purchased the Hermitage's photography permit. (Although we suspect that this is only advertised and not available . . . EVERYONE was taking pictures, and the security force---one babushka snoozing on a chair in one corner of each room---didn't approach anyone. Still, we were cautious.)
By the way, the Hermitage collection was largely the work of Catherine the Great, who charged her European ambassadors with acquiring outstanding works of art. (Later pieces in the collection came from the "nationalization" of private collections during Soviet times, as well as Nazi-era looting.) She also gave the museum its name: she called her art gallery her "hermitage" (she spoke French, which most eduated people in St. Petersburg did then), since so few people were admitted for viewing. Another incredible thing about being in Russia right now---seeing the galleries fully crowded with Russian people, visiting the collection that belongs to them (the Soviets didn't care much for historical art, but they didn't destroy it). Julie has decided that she's a big fan of Catherine the Great. If only Showtime would do a mini-series on her, a la The Tudors . . .
As we were in St. Petersburg just before our first wedding anniversary, and the traditional first anniversary gift is paper, I surprised Julie with tickets to see "Swan Lake" at the Hermitage Theater. This tiny place, which seats about 250 people, was built by Catherine the Great and hosted its first performance in 1785. Just sitting there, surrounded by so much history, was incredible. Watching the ballet---brought to Russia from France and nurtured into a national treasure---was powerful. The principal dancers were absolutely breath-taking, although the corps left a little to be desired. Oh, and the bathrooms---I'm pretty sure that those haven't been renovated since Catherine the Great's time! This evening was definitely one of the highlights of our trip.
Julie just looked over at these pictures and said, "Look at that! Were we there?" It IS pretty hard to believe.
More to come!
The gray, rainy weather was perfectly moody. And it didn't last.





It's kind of easy to understand how you could get to thinking that you were the most important person in the world, if you lived here.






